Will i need upper control arms?
Within most Toyota models and over the various model years the Toyota trucks and SUV’s may need, depending on lift height, aftermarket upper control arms following a lift. The general rule of thumb on aftermarket UCA’s is the closer you get to 2.5” of lift the more necessary UCAs become in order to get your truck back into alignment. So at 2" of lift you might be fine without them, at 2.5” its likely that you are on the cusp as to whether or not they are needed, and at 3” of lift it's pretty common for most people to need them.
For those with lift spindles (for 2WD trucks) or lifts gained from drop bracket kits, the need for aftermarket UCA's changes. In the case of those with 2WD trucks running lift spindles, the need for aftermarket UCA's will come into play only if more lift is added beyond what the spindles provided. As far as those running drop bracket kits the same rule applies, when going beyond what the lift kit provided aftermarkert UCA's may need to be considered.
For those with lift spindles (for 2WD trucks) or lifts gained from drop bracket kits, the need for aftermarket UCA's changes. In the case of those with 2WD trucks running lift spindles, the need for aftermarket UCA's will come into play only if more lift is added beyond what the spindles provided. As far as those running drop bracket kits the same rule applies, when going beyond what the lift kit provided aftermarkert UCA's may need to be considered.
Will I have fitment issues with Upper control arms?
With any style of upper control arms we do suggest to check with the manufactures specifications surrounding appropriate application and wheel/tire fitment concerns.
What are the various types of upper control arms?
Below are the 2 most common UCA's we get questions about
BallJoint UCA's
This type of arm mirrors that of the factor arms with respect to the joint. Like the factory arms the balljoints are sealed and encased in grease. This type of joint seems to be the best fit for those who are concerned with rust due to their environment (i.e. along the coast, lots of rain, snow, areas with high precipitation). Generally speaking the balljoint UCA's require little maintenance due to the joint being sealed.
Uniball UCA's
Due to the design of the uniball, this type of joint typically offers more range of motion over balljoint UCA's. For this reason the uniball UCA is a common choice for those who are focused on maximum articulation and performance. The downside to the uniball UCA is that the joint itself is not sealed, in fact both the underside and topside are fully exposed to the elements. As a result this type of UCA typically requires frequent inspection and maintenance.
BallJoint UCA's
This type of arm mirrors that of the factor arms with respect to the joint. Like the factory arms the balljoints are sealed and encased in grease. This type of joint seems to be the best fit for those who are concerned with rust due to their environment (i.e. along the coast, lots of rain, snow, areas with high precipitation). Generally speaking the balljoint UCA's require little maintenance due to the joint being sealed.
Uniball UCA's
Due to the design of the uniball, this type of joint typically offers more range of motion over balljoint UCA's. For this reason the uniball UCA is a common choice for those who are focused on maximum articulation and performance. The downside to the uniball UCA is that the joint itself is not sealed, in fact both the underside and topside are fully exposed to the elements. As a result this type of UCA typically requires frequent inspection and maintenance.
Why do aftermarket Upper control arms help with alignment, what's wrong with the factory arms?
Aside from aftermarket arms that offer adjustment like SPC's adjustable balljoint arms or the Total Chaos uniball UCA's with adjustable heims, aftermarket arms that do not offer adjustability are designed such that they incorporate additional caster and camber to accommodate for an anticipated lift.
What is the difference between a single leaf Add-A-Leaf and a 3 leaf progressive add-a-leaf?
The single leaf Add-A-Leaf (AAL) consists of a thicker leaf that has an arch that is greater than that of the factory leaf packs. When the AAL is added to the leaf packs the AAL will force more arch out of the factory packs which in part helps to accomplish a portion of the rear lift. Lift is also accomplished through the addition of steel added to the pack which does raise the spring rate thus allowing the factory leaf pack to support more rear weight.
The 3 leaf AAL consists of thinner leafs with minimal arch. Having minimal arch the 3 leaf AAL fits against the factory packs nicely vs. trying to re-arch them like the single leaf AAL does. This along with the leafs being thinner and having a pyramid stack design (long to short leafs which engaged as the packs are flexed during up travel), most will say the ride is improved over a single leaf AAL. Unlike a single leaf AAL, a good portion of the lift is accomplished through the overall thickness of the 3 leafs. However, like the single leaf AAL the 3 leaf AAL does raise the spring rate and this can contribute to a firmer ride over the stock leaf packs.
The 3 leaf AAL consists of thinner leafs with minimal arch. Having minimal arch the 3 leaf AAL fits against the factory packs nicely vs. trying to re-arch them like the single leaf AAL does. This along with the leafs being thinner and having a pyramid stack design (long to short leafs which engaged as the packs are flexed during up travel), most will say the ride is improved over a single leaf AAL. Unlike a single leaf AAL, a good portion of the lift is accomplished through the overall thickness of the 3 leafs. However, like the single leaf AAL the 3 leaf AAL does raise the spring rate and this can contribute to a firmer ride over the stock leaf packs.
Is there anything wrong with using lift blocks over Add-A-Leafs?
For those who don't want to alter the quality of ride, a lift block is a good inexpensive option. Unlike AALs, which can raise the spring rate of the factory packs resulting in a stiffer ride, blocks just lower the rear axle creating a new perch for the center bolt head to engage into. A lot of people will hear negative reviews on blocks and for this reason avoid them altogether. Though we are not big fans of taller blocks (over 2") as they can contribute to things like axle wrap or premature wear, smaller blocks typically have minimal to no impact on the integrity of the factory packs.
Should I go with an add-a-leaf or a full leaf pack replacement?
This comes down to what you use your truck for (hauling, towing, consistent weight) and what your budget looks like. AAL's in general will provide you with some increased capabilities; however, they are very much dependent on the condition of the factory leaf packs. That said if your factory packs are lacking in any way an AAL might not be the best option.
Aftermarket leaf packs, depending on which one, tend to be more capable over the factory packs. In some cases aftermarket leaf packs can be designed to suite your exact needs. Though this is perhaps the best possible option for those looking for that specific lift height and/or towing capability, leafs packs can be quite expensive.
Aftermarket leaf packs, depending on which one, tend to be more capable over the factory packs. In some cases aftermarket leaf packs can be designed to suite your exact needs. Though this is perhaps the best possible option for those looking for that specific lift height and/or towing capability, leafs packs can be quite expensive.
Do I need longer u-bolts with the single leaf add-a-leaf?
When using the single leaf AAL (our Deaver AAL), longer u-bolts are not required. As long as the factory ones have not been modified there should be enough thread on the factory ubolts to accept the addition of the AAL. Keep in mind most people do not like to re-torque ubolts and so if you want a new set we do have our HS ubolts available in our rear hardware section.
There are various leaf packs available, what are the main differences?
Off of the shelf we have OME Dakars and Deaver. We can also have a leaf pack custom made through Deaver as well. As far as the off-the-shelf options here is some information on each.
OME Leaf Packs (Dakars)
There are two different OME leaf packs, the EL095R which is the medium duty leaf pack and the EL096R which is the heavy duty leaf pack. Either of the OME Dakar full leaf packs will provide quite a bit more hauling, towing, and depending on application off-road capability over the stock packs. That said both pack can be stiffer over the factory packs since they are designed to be more capable. ARB (manufacturer of OME suspension) spec's out the medium duty packs (EL095R) to provide approximately 2.75” of lift over stock on an 05-15 and around 2" of lift on a 2016+ Tacoma, both running 0 lbs. to GVW. The heavy duty pack (EL096R) having one extra leaf increases the load capacity by around 15%. ARB indicates this pack provides around 2.75” of lift over stock on an 05-15 and around 2" of lift on a 2016+ Tacoma, both running around 660lbs of constant weight.
Deaver J66 Leaf Packs
The Deaver J66 leaf packs will provide a nicer on-road ride then most of the other after-market leaf packs and is known to perform very well off-road. It is spec'd out to provide around 1.5" of lift over stock. If you do have consistent weight in the bed of the truck, tow or haul this pack is not the pack for you, simply put it these packs were not design to support additional weight.
The Deaver U402 Leaf Packs (3 variations)
The Deaver U402 leaf packs pick up where the J66 leaves off. These packs were designed to help support weight while providing a lift. The basic U402 pack will provide around 3" of lift on a Tacoma running around 300-400 lbs. of additional weight in the bed. If the weight is less than that then the lift will be more and the ride will in-turn be stiffer. The U402 II will provide around 3" of lift on a Tacoma running around 500-700 lbs. of additional weight and the U402 III pack will provide around the same amount of lift with an additional 700 lbs.+ weight. Again the less weight the more lift and potentially a stiffer ride.
OME Leaf Packs (Dakars)
There are two different OME leaf packs, the EL095R which is the medium duty leaf pack and the EL096R which is the heavy duty leaf pack. Either of the OME Dakar full leaf packs will provide quite a bit more hauling, towing, and depending on application off-road capability over the stock packs. That said both pack can be stiffer over the factory packs since they are designed to be more capable. ARB (manufacturer of OME suspension) spec's out the medium duty packs (EL095R) to provide approximately 2.75” of lift over stock on an 05-15 and around 2" of lift on a 2016+ Tacoma, both running 0 lbs. to GVW. The heavy duty pack (EL096R) having one extra leaf increases the load capacity by around 15%. ARB indicates this pack provides around 2.75” of lift over stock on an 05-15 and around 2" of lift on a 2016+ Tacoma, both running around 660lbs of constant weight.
Deaver J66 Leaf Packs
The Deaver J66 leaf packs will provide a nicer on-road ride then most of the other after-market leaf packs and is known to perform very well off-road. It is spec'd out to provide around 1.5" of lift over stock. If you do have consistent weight in the bed of the truck, tow or haul this pack is not the pack for you, simply put it these packs were not design to support additional weight.
The Deaver U402 Leaf Packs (3 variations)
The Deaver U402 leaf packs pick up where the J66 leaves off. These packs were designed to help support weight while providing a lift. The basic U402 pack will provide around 3" of lift on a Tacoma running around 300-400 lbs. of additional weight in the bed. If the weight is less than that then the lift will be more and the ride will in-turn be stiffer. The U402 II will provide around 3" of lift on a Tacoma running around 500-700 lbs. of additional weight and the U402 III pack will provide around the same amount of lift with an additional 700 lbs.+ weight. Again the less weight the more lift and potentially a stiffer ride.
Are the Dakar leaf packs left / right side specific?
For the 98-04 Tacoma yes they are and the packs have specific part numbers that correspond with each side.
For the 05-current they are not. Now people might hear otherwise because of misinformation past along regarding the markings on the packs, but this information is often confused. These markings are added following internal inspection post manufacturing and were intended to be used by the manufacturer only. For this reason there is no way a customer could specify which markings they would like to receive as the packs are not sold this way nor could the manufacturer produce equal amounts of packs with each marking and then distribute them accordingly. Nevertheless below we have provided what the markings mean for your reference.
For the 05-current they are not. Now people might hear otherwise because of misinformation past along regarding the markings on the packs, but this information is often confused. These markings are added following internal inspection post manufacturing and were intended to be used by the manufacturer only. For this reason there is no way a customer could specify which markings they would like to receive as the packs are not sold this way nor could the manufacturer produce equal amounts of packs with each marking and then distribute them accordingly. Nevertheless below we have provided what the markings mean for your reference.
- The "0" indicates the arch of the pack met specification almost perfectly
- The + indicates the arch of the pack met spec but landed on the high end of the allowed tolerance. What this means is there is just a bit more arch than a pack that is marked with a "0". With a bit more arch this could translate to a bit more lift.
- The – indicates the arch of the pack met spec but landed on the low end of the allowed tolerance. What this means is there is just a bit less arch than a pack that is marked with a "0". With a bit less arch this could translate to a bit less lift.
Do aftermarket leaf packs SQUEAK?
Squeaking is common with almost every leaf pack even the factory leaf packs can squeak. The biggest contributing factor to this is leaf curvature inconsistency which can cause certain ares of the leafs to make contact regardless of the use of anti squeak pads. Another factor for squeaking is the fact that leafs are exposed to dirt and grime which gets in between the leafs. Although most manufacturers do what they can to try and prevent the squeaking, they can't really guarantee it won't happen.
What size wheel and tire do you recommend? Can I clear “X” tire size with "X" lift?
We do not make guarantees or recommendations as far as wheel and tire fitment go because the combinations are endless and each combination varies. We typically advise our customers to check on the forums, which serve as a great resource, to see what others are running in way of wheels & tires and what lift height they are at. We find that most on the forums will have photos of their set-up and this can be a great way to see what the end result looks like. Also in addition to asking what wheel/tire size and lift the member chose, it is also a good idea to ask if any trimming was needed for proper clearance.
On a side note, when you lift the truck to be able to put larger tires on it, the ride quality can be directly impacted by the tire chosen. Larger tires tend to have a higher load rating which makes the on-road ride quite a bit stiffer. Some people will contact us after placing larger tires on at the same time the lift is installed and say the lift kit killed the ride not realizing it could be the tires.
On a side note, when you lift the truck to be able to put larger tires on it, the ride quality can be directly impacted by the tire chosen. Larger tires tend to have a higher load rating which makes the on-road ride quite a bit stiffer. Some people will contact us after placing larger tires on at the same time the lift is installed and say the lift kit killed the ride not realizing it could be the tires.
What is the "Taco Lean" ?
The "Taco Lean" is just that, the truck will be lower on one side (with the Tacoma, the drivers side) thus causing the truck to lean. This lean is the result of uneven weight from one side to the other. Its common for the drivers side to be lower over the passenger side as the gas tank and battery are on the drivers side.
Now Toyota tries to prevent this from happening by manufacturing two different coils, the drivers side having a coil that will better support the additional weight; however, over time this lean can still occur as the coils age and sage in.
As for aftermarket coils, they are not left / right specific and are manufactured to the same specifications. For this reason we have our 1/4" lean spacer (Top Plate Spacer) which helps to correct the lean following a lift with aftermarket coils.
Now Toyota tries to prevent this from happening by manufacturing two different coils, the drivers side having a coil that will better support the additional weight; however, over time this lean can still occur as the coils age and sage in.
As for aftermarket coils, they are not left / right specific and are manufactured to the same specifications. For this reason we have our 1/4" lean spacer (Top Plate Spacer) which helps to correct the lean following a lift with aftermarket coils.
How do I make my truck sit level?
“Level” is a hard thing to account for because every truck can sit slightly different from the factory. We see some trucks sit almost level while others can have a 2” rear rake. This makes it really difficult to guarantee a particular stance since so many variables can come into play. In order to try to get the best results possible, we recommend taking measurements. Measure from the center of the hub to the bottom of your fender on all 4 corners to see exactly how much higher you sit in the back as opposed to the front. This way you will know about how high you will need to go in the front and/or rear to get you near the stance you are shooting for. Measurements should always be taken on level ground in order to be as close to accurate as possible. To help with this further you can also measure with a ½ tank of gas since the weight of the gas tank can affect the drivers side measurements.
EXAMPLE
Your measurements come out to 21" (both sides) in the rear and 20" (both sides) in the front. You want to go up around 2.5” in the front and you want the back to be level with it.
EXAMPLE
Your measurements come out to 21" (both sides) in the rear and 20" (both sides) in the front. You want to go up around 2.5” in the front and you want the back to be level with it.
- - 20” (current front height) + 2.5” (or whatever lift you are shooting for) = 22.5”
- - Subtract the rear measurements (in this case is 21”) which = 1.5"
- - Approximate lift height needed to level the truck would be 1.5" of rear lift
I measured before I lifted the truck and its not sitting level, Why is this?
The lift achieved from any kind of spring, whether it is a leaf spring or a coil spring, is variable and not exact. Depending on the condition of your factory components (where applicable), how they respond to the added suspension, the overall weight of the vehicle and any add-ons (bumpers, batteries, tool boxes, covers, light bars, skids, sliders, etc.) and manufacturing tolerances of the spring themselves, can all influence how much lift you get. For this reason we provide the average after settled lift height that we have seen from clients running specific suspensions and do not guarantee exact lift numbers.
I just lifted my truck and I got a lot more lift then I expected, whats the deal?
There are several different reasons for this...
- In a lot of cases customers will make the mistake of measuring directly following the installation of a lift. This will often skew the results as the suspension has not had any time to settle out. Please note that when the truck is brought down from the lift the front end can sit much higher since when lifted the suspension is drooped and pulled in. When dropped to the ground the suspension will not land in its resting place until the vehicle is actually moved. Also be mindful of break-in, when the suspension is first installed its not uncommon for the lift to be higher than expected.
- The initial and after-lifted measurements must be done on as level of ground as possible and preferably with a ½ tank of gas. If this was not done the measurements taken might not be accurate.
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- We provide the average after-settled lift heights based on our customer feedback and product testing. The numbers are based on new suspension so with an older suspension the factory components could be pretty worn in. This may cause you to see after-lifted numbers higher than what was expected because the factory suspensions could be providing less, or negative lift, then it did when it was new. Now the new suspension is taking you back to stock and lifting you the amount it was intended to beyond that point.
I want my truck to sit one way when unloaded and the same when loaded down. What can I do?
There really isn’t much you can do in the way of leaf springs to accomplish this. The best bet is an airbag system. This way you can adjust the PSI up as need be to support the various loads that you may add to the bed of the truck. Leaf packs are directly affected by the weight being added so without airbags there is a very good chance the rear will drop down some.
What rear shocks do i select with my rear lift option?
This is not an easy question to answer because there are a lot of factors that come into play when selecting rear shocks. This is why we recommend you work with a suspension specialist to ensure the right shocks are chosen for your rear lift. At minimum when sourcing rear shocks it is recommended you know what extended and collapsed length is needed in order to prevent from collapsing the shocks before hitting the bumps during up travel and from over extending the rear during down travel to the point where the brake lines are pulled and damaged.
SIDE NOTE: With our kits we do take the guess work out of this by pairing specific shocks based on the rear application.
SIDE NOTE: With our kits we do take the guess work out of this by pairing specific shocks based on the rear application.
Will I need a Front diff drop (n/A for 2wd trucks)?
Whether or not a Differential Drop is needed will depend on the drive shaft angles following a lift. The more lift you get up front the more the drive shafts are pitched downward. The diff drop kits are designed to drop the front diff thus helping to elevate some if not all the angle gained. We do not include these kits in our suspension packages since most customers choose to forgo the installation of a diff drop; however, we do in fact carry these kits if interested in buying one.
What are rear shims and do I need them?
Shims come in various degrees and are used to correct the pinion angle following a lift. Generally speaking the higher the lift the higher degree shims are needed to bring the pinion angle back to factory. In order to properly shim the rear it is necessary to measure the angle before the lift is installed. Once the lift is installed you would measure again to determine the correct degree of correction needed. Since no two trucks are the same nor do lifts produce exact lift heights as its impractical to think everything is manufactured perfectly to spec, we do not include shims in our kits, but we certainly do carry them if needed.
The need of shims will both depend on whether or not the customer wants to try and maintain the factory angle and/or to help prevent issues that may arise as a result of lifting (most common issue being vibration).
The need of shims will both depend on whether or not the customer wants to try and maintain the factory angle and/or to help prevent issues that may arise as a result of lifting (most common issue being vibration).
What is a carrier bearing drop?
This is a spacer used to drop the carrier bearing down in order to help align both segments of the rear drive shaft following a lift. When a lift is added to the rear of the truck the second segment of the drive shaft is angled down more. With the front segment of the drive shaft having not been change and the second segment now angled down more this connection point (carrier bearing) may not operate as fluently during shaft rotation. This can lead to vibration as well as premature wear at the carrier bearing.
I want my truck to ride a certain way after lifted, it this possible?
It is always hard to speak to ride quality and for this reason we try to avoid it. So much of this relies heavily on personal perception (this seems to be the biggest factor of all), terrain, driving habits, budget, etc. Most aftermarket suspension will often provide a slightly firmer ride over stock. This is mainly due to the type of suspension, valving, and additional capabilities that it may provide over the factory set-up. Also another factor to consider is lift height, for the most part lift is achieved through the use of higher spring rates (coils & leaf springs) which in turn can stiffen the suspension up.
So to answer the question.... though it is possible to achieve the desired ride after a lift, its not always accomplished nor may your expectations be possible.
So to answer the question.... though it is possible to achieve the desired ride after a lift, its not always accomplished nor may your expectations be possible.
When assembling my shocks/coils what's the proper order of the bushings and washers?
NOTE: If you are an install shop and you have to read this in order to know how to do the assembly correctly, there is a very good chance you probably don't know what you are doing and most likely should NOT be assembling the coil onto the front shocks. Please do not call or email us and ask us how to perform this assembly. If you have an install shop you should know how to perform this assembly and shouldn't have to waste our time to explain it.
When performing the shock and coil assembly its important to stack the hardware in the correct order. With the shock pointing up, the hardware will be placed over-top of the stem in the following order (reference below).
IMPORTANT: If your shocks came with boots, these will need to be installed as some of the boots incorporate the use of spacers (i.e. Bilstein 5100's). If the boots are not installed, the bushings will NOT be compressed properly following assembly.
Assembly order
When performing the shock and coil assembly its important to stack the hardware in the correct order. With the shock pointing up, the hardware will be placed over-top of the stem in the following order (reference below).
IMPORTANT: If your shocks came with boots, these will need to be installed as some of the boots incorporate the use of spacers (i.e. Bilstein 5100's). If the boots are not installed, the bushings will NOT be compressed properly following assembly.
Assembly order
- - Curved washer with curve facing up to "cup" underside bushing
- - Underside bushing. This bushing will often have an extended lip that will fit into the hole in the strut mount (top hat).
- - Strut mount
- - Bushing
- - Top washer
- - Regular washer that goes along with lock nut if included (N/A step if not)
- - Lock nut
Why is my strut mount (top hat) of my shock/coil assembly angled?
This is common and despite what some people might think it has nothing to do with the orientation of the mount. Instead this issue is actually caused by the inconsistency of the coils, more specifically one side of the coil might have a greater amount of resistance upon compression vs. the other side*. As a result of this the side with more resistance will want to push up on the strut mount more on that one side than on the other. Because the mounts has rubber bushings both under them and on top, there is nothing that will really keep them level when this happens. Now once the assemblies are installed into place, the strut mounts are forced level as the studs are torqued down and the mounts are installed against the vehicles upper mount.
*Keep in mind with all things manufactured there are specifications and with each specification there is an allowed tolerance. With coils there is a bow spec and in some cases the coil could be on the high end of this specification (upper tolerance) thus allowing the coil to appear bowed (not straight, but with slight curve). This bow is typically the source of the problem with slanted strut mounts. With our own coils, we manufacture ours to tighter tolerances helping to prevent this and we also have additional specifications in place to ensure the coils meet a level of quality we demand.
*Keep in mind with all things manufactured there are specifications and with each specification there is an allowed tolerance. With coils there is a bow spec and in some cases the coil could be on the high end of this specification (upper tolerance) thus allowing the coil to appear bowed (not straight, but with slight curve). This bow is typically the source of the problem with slanted strut mounts. With our own coils, we manufacture ours to tighter tolerances helping to prevent this and we also have additional specifications in place to ensure the coils meet a level of quality we demand.